WHAT WE LOVED OF THE LATEST FASHION SHOWS
VALENTINO SHOW AT TRINITÀ DEI MONTI
At Valentino catwalks are always micro personal narratives that take the form of gigantic universal frescoes and in fact also this time has gone like this. Pierpaolo Piccioli goes back to the time when he watched everything from afar, with the enthusiasm of the outsider. An enthusiasm that remained to him, as it remained to him the perspective of the outsider, that is, the ability to keep a personal look, not to be swallowed by codes and protocols. And this is why seeing his vision projected on such a powerful stage has definitely seemed the culmination of a path that now includes everything within itself, from the men’s coat, to the huge evening dress.
OLIVIER ROUSTEING’S ACT OF LOVE AT JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
What Olivier Rousteing did was a kind of public self-therapy: staging his own personal relationship with what Gaultier meant to him.
In this space Rousteing found himself, he freed himself from the "prison" of Balmain and wrote a true act of love.
DEMNA’S “BLACK CANVASES” AT BALENCIAGA COUTURE
Demna is using couture as a real testing laboratory, directing his transformative energy towards territories that no one has beaten for some time. The latest collection represents a moment in which we think in ideal terms, it is a reflection on what a fashion object can become, without being so yet.
SAINT LAURENT IN THE MOROCCAN DESERT
The latest fashion shows seem to have been the showdown for many designers. From Pierpaolo Piccioli to Olivier Rousteing to Anthony Vaccarello who in the wonderful setting of the Moroccan desert presents a collection that he said, just before the show, be "for the first time, my most personal". Vaccarello looked back twenty years to when he was a student in Brussels at the time when tastefully drawn lines of Belgian noir were ubiquitous in fashion. He took his sartorial impulses from his previous years and returned them to us, perfectly filtered according to the codes of Saint Laurent.